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The dreamlike touch of Yelena Yemchuk on show in New York

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You often mention your childhood as a source of inspiration. What role does your childhood play in your practice?

I think the older I get, the more I realize how important it is. Which is so strange, because you think about that time in your life, and it’s kind of vague. It’s almost like dreaming. But I find that I keep going back to specific memories from my childhood. There are certain moments that bring you back to a place of that innocence and wonder that you had as a kid. You’re so open, so excited and so confused about everything at the same time. Our dreams go into your reality, and you’re like a floating sponge of energy. I had such a wonderful childhood in Ukraine, I spent a lot of it with my grandmother and cousin. I spent all my vacations and weekends with these two magical creatures. And my grandmother was the woman that just took me everywhere, and we spent a lot of time in nature, it was just this kind of love, this overwhelming love. I feel like every Ukranian I know has that special bond with their grandmother. I don’t know what it is, but it’s like this old soul character that would read to me, look at art books together and go wander in the forest. My cousin was 9 years older than me, an artist and a musician, but we were hanging out like we were the same age.was really beautiful. I think that the two of them developed my fantasy and my ability to create and come up with magical ideas. So when my parents and I came to the States, I had that cut off from me, a full-on trauma.  When I started realizing that I was an artist and I needed to express myself, I subconsciously went back to that time, to this place of healing, and in a weird way, a place where I felt secure and safe, the place of magic. So I think there’s a lot of fantasy, humor and magic in my work because I keep going back to that place, which is also ‘surreal’ in a sense. And that’s where things get blurred…there is where the line is blurry between fantasy and reality.

This thin balance between reality and fantasy is then mirrored in your work? How do you manage to keep this thin balance?

I love this space between dreams and reality. I always go back there or maybe it’s just where I exist. Even with more of my documentary work, when I am shooting in a city on the streets with no set-ups of any kind, I still find that thing that is a bit absurd and lives out of our everyday reality. It really lives everywhere, you just have to see it. It’s like in the Odesa project, the city is like a floating land of dreams and reality and I was drawn to it. Like a person’s face pulls you in, or like a flower, the way it’s lying in the grass intrigues you. And I think, in that case, whatever you’re attracted to, you try to show it through your eyes. It’s hard to explain because it becomes your version of something. Your interpretation. If somebody was here next to me and they took the same picture, they would take a completely different picture, or they wouldn’t take this picture at all.  I think it’s an individual perspective. It’s whatever captivates you. Films are a great way to create a completely different reality, you can really take one into your world. And then there is painting, where I can create exactly what I want out of my imagination. Then anything is possible. No rules at all.

Given your long-lasting experience as an artist, what would you recommend to image-makers that are entering the world of photography today?

Well, when I started taking pictures and decided to become a photographer, it was not a very popular thing to do. Not at all, actually. I was really interested in photography and felt like it was a great way for me to express my inner world, it was very instinctual. My advice is, if you think that it’s like being a rock star or something, it’s really not. Right now, there’s so many photographers, and I think you have to be very passionate about this art form. You have to have an individual way of seeing things. The difference between a good picture and a picture that touches somebody is very big. In our world now we’re overwhelmed with photography—we see it left and right. Especially with Instagram. It’s oversaturated. Don’t get too caught up in trying to fit into a box or take pictures like the people that are popular. I think my overall advice would be, if you’re really passionate and have a story to tell, go with it. Just do your own thing.

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Givenchy Resort 2024

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Givenchy Resort 2024

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Best Fashion Instagrams of the Week: Lily Rose Depp, Taylor Russell, and Tina Lawson

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This week in fashion, standout IG posters illustrated the power of anything-goes fashion. A tuxedo paired with gold grills? In the world of designer Riccardo Tisci, this coupling masterfully marries rough-and-tumble with formality. Model Kyle Gayle, a.k.a. @reallydoedusty, made a long-sleeved latex top, a Goofy tee, a propeller hat, and a furry bag look like the perfect dinner outfit. While Laverne Cox, who recently celebrated her 51st birthday, wore a 2001 John Galliano-era Dior with 1985 Manfred Thierry Muglery, showing that a fabulous vintage get-up does not have to be constrained to a singular decade. 

There were also unapologetically high-glam moments. Notably, Bones and All star Taylor Russell delivered bonafide razzle-dazzle in a Jonathan Anderson at Loewe design. The glittering look matched the rising star’s undisputable shine. 

Tina Lawson, who seems to be accompanying daughter Beyoncé on her Renaissance World Tour, became an art masterpiece at the Louvre in high-waist cargo pants, a statement belt, and a chic black top. Mona Tina! 

Get into the best fashion Instagrams of the week below. 

Marc Forne

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Laverne Cox 

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Riccardo Tisci

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@louisvuittoncrocs

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Haim

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Tina Lawson

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Jonathan Anderson and Taylor Russell 

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Pechuga Vintage 

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@sicamode

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@cainandlane

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Blake Lawren

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@reallydoedusty

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Rosalía 

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Zero + Maria Cornejo Resort 2024 Collection

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Maria Cornejo has spent spring on the road, visiting stores around the US—Austin, New Orleans, Chicago, Detroit. In Denver, where she put on a fashion show at the Contemporary Museum of Art with her retail partner, Max, a ZMC superfan introduced herself. “She said, ‘I’ve had so much fun in this dress,’” Cornejo remembered during a recent studio visit. “That’s why we’re still here, we’re always listening to our customers.”

Cornejo’s business turns 25 this year, a milestone that shouldn’t go unremarked. Over that quarter century, the fashion industry has become more and more consolidated, with resources concentrated among a small number of super brands, which in turn command the lion’s share of retail and e-tail real estate, and thus the fashion media’s attention. To stand out as an independent business in that landscape, a designer needs to have a unique selling point—a voice.

That’s one thing that Cornejo has never lacked, as a tour through the racks in her showroom reminds us. She resurrected a circular grid print she created at another museum, San Francisco’s de Young, a decade ago for this resort collection, but it’d be wrong to call it a greatest hits lineup. Cornejo’s vocabulary is well established. She worked here with the easy-wearing, elegant circular and triangle shapes she’s long favored, as she does most seasons.

The novelty comes from the fabrics, which only become more interesting as time goes by. There’s the circular grid print, in different colorways for the diverse regions where her collection is sold. Us New Yorkers get the black version with fiery orange and yellow dots, while the white will play better in the south and west, she said. There’s a soft cotton matelassé whose vibe is different depending on its color; white says beach wedding guest and the two-tone brown-and-black option looks ready for holiday parties. And there’s stretch luxe velvet in jewel tone shades of citrine and amethyst for a caftan and a figure flattering column with a lightly elasticated waist.

As far as fun is concerned, this season’s top contender is something new from ZMC: a short dress with a deep-v neckline and no sleeves. “They want to show off their legs and look sexy,” Cornejo explained. Always listening.

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Emily Ratajkowski’s Latest Look Is Giving Full-On Carrie Bradshaw

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Cue the Sex and The City theme song! Last night in New York City, Emily Ratajkowski hit the town in a look that was very Carrie Bradshaw. 

On the hit HBO show, Carrie, the character famously portrayed by Sarah Jessica Parker, was a prolific wearer of tube tops (it aired during the late ’90s, early aughts after all) and she wore them with everything from baggy jeans to pencil skirts. The strapless top has been trending on the recent runways, and Ratajkowski opted for a classic white version. But instead of leaning into an overall minimal color palette with her ensemble, she paired them with a bold, multicolored striped pant, which felt perfect for a fun night out. Even her statement bag—a silver chainmail Paco Rabanne style—was straight out of SATC universe. The fictional character even carried a mini pink version of it in season one of And Just Like That.

Of course, no nod to Carrie would be complete without a heel as well, and Ratajkowski opted for a square-toe stiletto sandal. All she needs is to swap her bejeweled necklace for the classic “Carrie” nameplate and we’d be seeing double.

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24 Stylish Work Shoes to Wear to the Office and Beyond

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Although we can appreciate a chunky sandal or staple sneaker to make your commute easy on the feet, one shouldn’t underestimate the value of a power shoe for the office. With polished footwear comes a stronger sense of confidence and motivation to tackle the day’s to-do list. So, why not say goodbye to boring and predictable silhouettes and consider a pair that offers a distinct POV?

Whether it’s a high-stakes meeting or presentation,an interview, or merely day-to-day dressing, you can rely on this rotation of footwear to be both comfortable and chic. Ahead, there’s something for every career path and personal style. For the pared-back minimalist who leans on a daily uniform, consider the season’s sleekest mules and slingbacks from the likes of Toteme, Khaite, and The Row. Or, if your 9-to-5 aesthetic skews bold, consider a statement pair like Mansur Gavriel’s pastel-hued ballet flats or embellished pumps as seen at Bottega Veneta.

For a look that means business, put your best foot forward in these 24 stylish work shoes.

Totême cutout kitten loafers

Saint Laurent Chris patent-leather loafers

Everlane The Italian leather Day heels

Tory Burch pointed slingback pumps

Bottega Veneta Madame embellished leather pumps

Mansur Gavriel square toe ballerina flats

Emme Parsons Mary Jane ballerina pumps

Prada patent leather slingbacks

Aeyde Melia pointed toe pumps

Gucci petite GG slingback pumps

Nanushka Enaji leather sandals

Khaite Water leather slingback pumps

Tod’s Bubble leather ballet flats

ATP Atelier Dernice slingback pumps

The Row kitten-heel pumps

Carel Kina Mary Jane pumps

Le Monde Beryl Mary Jane ballet flats

Jil Sander asymmetrical slingback pumps

Dear Frances Harlow pumps

Manolo Blahnik Maysale point-toe flats

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Kristen Stewart Gives Chanel’s Skirt-Suit a Modern Update

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Only a few weeks after hosting its ultra-feminine resort show in Los Angeles, Chanel presented its Chanel Métiers D’Art collection in Tokyo on 1 June. As always, a roster of international stars were in attendance, from actor Park Seo-joon to Blackpink’s Jennie Kim, who performed renditions of “Fly Me to the Moon” and “Killing Me Softly” at the event.

Another standout A-lister on the FROW: long-time brand ambassador Kristen Stewart, who put a contemporary spin on the iconic Chanel suit. Her look consisted of a white sleeveless Mother Denim tank top, a white bouclé jacket, and a matching ultra-mini skirt. Stewart topped it all off with black suede Mary Jane platform pumps, white high socks, and masses of silver jewelry. 

Few garments have achieved the iconic status and enduring influence of the Chanel tweed suit. Designed by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925, it caused a stir at the time because, up until that point, suits were considered men’s clothing. Today, of course, Chanel’s creation is seen as the embodiment of classic luxury.

Coco Chanel herself wearing one of the original tweed skirt suits, 1929.

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Chanel spring 2023 haute couture.

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Coco Chanel’s successors, including the late Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard, have added their own touches to her original iteration, introducing variations in color and fabric, while staying true to the suit’s essence.

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Here Are the Tony-Nominated Shows That You Can Still See on Broadway

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Closing date: Open run. 

A Doll’s House

Nominations: Best revival of a play, best leading actress in a play (Jessica Chastain), best featured actor in a play (Arian Moayed), best lighting design of a play (Jon Clark), best sound design of a play (Ben and Max Ringham), best direction of a play (Jamie Lloyd).

Closing date: June 10, 2023. 

Nominations: Best play, best featured actress in a play (Nikki Crawford), best costume design of a play (Dominique Fawn Hill), best lighting design of a play (Bradley King), best direction of a play (Saheem Ali).

Closing date: June 25, 2023. 

Good Night, Oscar

Nominations: Best leading actor in a play (Sean Hayes), best scenic design of a play (Rachel Hauck), best costume design of a play (Emilio Sosa).

Closing date: August 27, 2023. 

Leopoldstadt

Nominations: Best play, best featured actor in a play (Brandon Uranowitz), best scenic design of a play (Richard Hudson), best costume design of a play (Brigitte Reiffenstuel), best lighting design of a play (Neil Austin), best direction of a play (Patrick Marber).

Closing date: July 2, 2023.

Life of Pi

Nominations: Best scenic design of a play (Tim Hatley and Andrzej Goulding), best costume design of a play (Tim Hatley, Nick Barnes, and Finn Caldwell), best lighting design of a play (Tim Lutkin), best sound design of a play (Carolyn Downing), best direction of a play (Max Webster).

Closing date: Open run.

Nominations: Best musical, best book of a musical (David Lindsay-Abaire), best original score (Jeanine Tesori and David Lindsay-Abaire), best leading actress in a musical (Victoria Clark), best featured actor in a musical (Justin Cooley), best featured actress in a musical (Bonnie Milligan), best direction of a musical (Jessica Stone), best orchestrations (John Clancy).

Closing date: Open run.

Nominations: Best musical, best book of a musical (David Thompson and Sharon Washington), best leading actor in a musical (Colton Ryan), best scenic design of a musical (Beowulf Boritt), best costume design of a musical (Donna Zakowska), best lighting design of a musical (Ken Billington), best sound design of a musical (Kai Harada), best choreography (Susan Stroman), best orchestrations (Daryl Waters and Sam Davis).

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50 Years of Pacha, the Club That Changed Ibiza Forever

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The ripple effect of the Ibiza club scene was huge; Oakenfold, Walker, Rampling, and Holloway brought the island’s blend of Chicago House and Balearic music back home to Britain with them, while visitors flocked from Europe to feel the freedom. “Pacha was always there,” says Tong, but during this period it began to “fade into the background slightly” especially “in comparison to edgier and more ravey clubs like Manumission and Space.” 

Courtesy of Pacha

The millennium marked Pacha’s revival period, however: Eric Murillo joined the lineup, and Paul Oakenfold had a night, which Tong then took over with Pure Pacha, a residency that lasted ten years. “Pacha had almost been the most glamorous, the most Spanish, the most Latin,” he says. “International, classy. You had the legacy of Hollywood glamour and Spanish royalty coming over in the ’70s and ’80s. I wanted to bring back the heritage, the feeling of dressing up, the spirit of what Pacha had been at the beginning.”

By the 2010s, Pacha had moved more into the EDM space and became a franchise, with clubs opening in New York, London, and several other cities. “It got messy,” Jessica McCarthy Capaz, artistic director of Pacha, remembers. “It’s not just about the cherry logo, it’s about content, operations, service. Some of the new Pacha clubs did a good job, Buenos Aires was amazing, for example, others less so.” By 2017, new ownership decided to close the franchises. Capaz herself wanted to take Pacha in another direction, to leave behind the EDM big room sound and “go back to basics, what Pacha was famous for—house music—and Solomon, Dixon, and Bob Sinclair brought back those more organic, warm, sexy sounds.”

This June marks the fiftieth anniversary of the club—and five decades of defining both club culture and style. At the 2023 opening party, the room hits capacity as Solomon headlines from the new DJ booth, installed to update the space and to swap a raised pulpit above the dancefloor to a booth into the center of the club, and the middle of the crowd and action. The VIP area is sprawling, with burly waiters in black T-shirts carrying champagne bottles with sparklers, and emblazoned with the club’s famous logo. Tickets aren’t cheap, but as Ferrer points out, DJs have put their prices up; plus, there’s the new sound system and its complex but impressive architectural design above the dancefloor. In VIP, you’re paying for that “Mediterranean sense of hospitality,” he adds, and true to form, on opening night, he seems to know everyone. 



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Did He Steal Her Story? A Literary Mystery Is at the Heart of Keziah Weir’s First Novel

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Otherwise, I was reading books on astronomy and physics. One of those is by a woman named Lou Page—A Dipper Full Of Stars—she was a geologist, but she wrote it to teach herself astronomy. I was thinking about Carl Sagan and people whose books are a model for that kind of writing. My reading life was also opening up from the very specific people who I’d studied as an undergraduate. I was reading Nicole Krauss and Zadie Smith’s essays and Toni Morrison. And I was seeing that it was possible that you could, you know, be a woman writer, writing about women. Mind-blowing.

Throughout your career in magazines, and now as an editor at Vanity Fair, you’ve written and edited book reviews, profiles, and other magazine journalism. Can you speak to the relationship between your own nonfiction and fiction?

I’ve read magazines since I was little. I remember having the Lindsay Lohan Vanity Fair cover that I’m sure my mom had gotten and then I weaseled away into my room. Both novels and magazines have been a big part of my life. I think that falling into other people’s brains, getting immersed in their stories, can be accomplished in both forms.

I didn’t get an MFA, but I’ve gotten to interview authors who I love over the years [and] profile Zadie Smith and Nicole Krauss and Rebecca Solnit. [In doing this,] I was trying to learn how to be a writer too. And I just have been really fortunate that the two can be in conversation with each other.

Did you have a run-in comparable to Sal and Martin’s meeting?

I did. I was at a reading at the New York Public Library. After the reading, we were all sort of milling around, there was a reception in the next room with cheese plates and too much cheap red wine. This man who was in his 70s just came up and started chatting with me. I was 22. He was saying all these wonderful things that I was very excited to hear at the time—that my life was going to be so beautiful, that he could tell that I was a writer. Afterward, my professor who had invited me was like, “You know that was Hampton Fancher, the screenwriter for Blade Runner?” Which meant little to nothing to me at the time, except that I was like, “Oh, that’s very cool.” I had already started writing the shadows of Martin and Moira, but I think that gave me something to latch onto. In some ways, it was a similar experience to Sal and Martin’s encounter. And then materially, it was totally different. But it opened up narrative pathways.

This interview has been edited and condensed.

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Polka Dots Are Taking Over Street Style

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It’s no secret that British heartthrob Harry Styles is obsessed with polka dots; there are even fan threads charting his obsession. A polka dot printed Gucci tee that the singer wore on his “Love on Tour” has become something of a signature look that seems to have bounced easily into street style, and was seen both at the menswear shows last June, and at the cruise shows in May. Scroll below for the best polka dot prints in street style. 

Paris, spring 2023 menswear

Photographed by Phil Oh



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