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Balmain Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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To be clear, Olivier Rousteing does not fear the end is near. Neither was this his final curtain: of that, he clarified over WhatsApp post-show, he’s certain. Instead the reason he played “My Way” with such heavy emphasis—“When there was doubt/ I ate it up and spit it out/ I faced it all and I stood tall”—was he said: “about following the voice inside your heart and your soul.”

Yet again, as with every show in his 12 years (and counting) here—this was Balmain by Rousteing without exemption. And yet it was also dramatically different to last season’s stadium-presented festival showcase. That included a star turn from Cher and was great for the casual punter, but also presented a stern challenge for those pros who were there to check the clothes. This season, while still doing things his way, Rousteing pivoted both in presentation and product towards classicism, which is fast becoming a keynote feature of the fall shows more broadly. Presentation wise we were in a smallish, well-lit salon plonked in Le Carreau du Temple’s cavernous darkness: two parallel leather benches with a filling of five circular banquettes (upon which so-called influencers and so-called journalists were mixed freely, without apparent conflict), allowing a total capacity of 220. Said Rousteing pre-show: “I wanted something intimate. To enjoy a moment, after five months’ hard work. Back to origins, the new French style by Monsieur Balmain, and also to me what is passion—luxury and quality. We are surrounded by fireworks and all this craziness—social media—but at the end of the day we go back to quality… to understand the future you must understand the past, and this collection is clearly an homage to the house that I am working for.”

Also backstage was Stephen Jones, who for one season only worked on the hats here—a gorgeous shallow lampshade in moire mohair that was a Balmain design from 1959 and a ’70s beret in leather and other fabrications. He was as twinkly, ebullient and wise as ever. As he pointed out, before Pierre Balmain founded his brand in 1946, he worked alongside Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy for Lucien Lelong: what a studio that must have been.

Under those hats unfolded a collection that featured many direct references to the founder. The look 22 maze monogram, the bows, the pearl-defined polka dots, and the deconstructed tailoring with lapels twisted wonderfully to define generously proper necklines—all were examples of this. But this was no period drama: Rousteing updated Balmain’s original dialect with 21st century technology and contemporary craft, for instance in a new-New Look second look that was shaped out of threaded neoprene. High-shine PVC-like material was draped into off-the shoulder ’40s siren dresses that your mind blew imagining Lauren Bacall in. Capes, so old-school but so wonderfully dramatic, were a big feature; integrated as mohair capelets into tailored jackets or given 100 per cent cape identity in closing pieces studded with pin and crystal.

After last season’s epic wooden shoes, Rousteing partly self-de-platformed this season, delivering cute bow-fronted slippers and pumps (although of course there were a few platforms, this time pearl- or satin-covered, too). Some models toted purposefully anachronistic bags, piles of small luggage bundled together and, inexplicably, a toolbox. Explosive bow dresses, sculpturally architectural corsets, a luscious long coat made of rustling raspberry mesh, and super-built quilted looks followed. Sinatra sang his heart out. Rousteing did not rule out a return to the “va-va-voom” big format show in the future, but this season, as ever, he followed his heart and did Balmain his way.

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Best Fashion Instagrams of the Week: Kendall Jenner, Megan Thee Stallion, Porsha Williams

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This past week, celebrities were all about prim and proper style. Kendall Jenner was clearly inspired by Audrey Hepburn when she donned a shawl, sunglasses, and a low-neck little black dress. Meanwhile, Megan Thee Stallion visited the Vice President’s Mansion for a Women’s History Brunch, co-hosted by Glamour magazine and Vice President Kamala Harris. For the occasion, Megan wore a sophisticated blue and black dress that featured a plunging neckline and a voluminous bottom. Both looks showed how classic style can have many iterations.

 There were, of course, more casual moments on the ‘gram this week. Kim Kardashian and Khloé Kardashian shared a poolside photo, showing off their Skims bathing suits. While former Real Housewives of Atlanta star Porsha Williams rocked a mean and lean catsuit. Another week of great fashion in the books! 

Below, check out the best fashion Instagrams of the week.

Mahmood

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Diotima 

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Kendall Jenner

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Megan Thee Stallion

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Kim Kardashian 

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@Artofastylist 

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Porsha Williams

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Ella Emhoff

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The Best Bridesmaid Dresses For Every Type of Wedding Vibe

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Bad bridesmaid dresses are something of a cultural cliché, with fluffy embellishment and saccharin-sweet color palettes cementing the stereotype. But for brides eager to step away from this commonplace approach and pivot toward more modern styles, there’s a world of choice. Having your bridesmaids wear dresses that complement both their personalities and your own wedding gown is a win-win situation, with everyone feeling their most confident and the portraits will turn out far chicer. 

Whether your bridal party is on the smaller or larger side, finding bridesmaid dresses that punctuate this momentous occasion shouldn’t be a chore. Begin with a color scheme and decide whether you want to uniformly dress your bridesmaids in coordinating designs or have each person wear an individual style. The latter can be an especially nice choice for ensuring they’ll wear the dress again for years to come. 

Ahead, discover some of our favorite designs from brands like Markarian, Jonathan Simkhai, and Ulla Johnson ahead to kickstart your search, with nary a fluffy tulle gown in sight.

Floral Bridesmaid Dresses

Photo: Courtesy of Cara Cara

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See Lady Gaga as Harley Quinn in the First Set Photos From ‘Joker 2’

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Those walking the streets of Lower Manhattan on Saturday may have noticed a small commotion taking place at City Hall, as hundreds of people swarmed around police officers escorting a mysterious figure down the steps. On closer inspection, this apparent criminal mastermind appeared somewhat familiar. 

No, it wasn’t Donald Trump—even though, ironically, there has been a media circus all week in the exact same spot, as the public awaits the possible indictment of Trump in the ongoing “hush money” case. Turns out it involved another saga of (alleged) treachery and deceit. The heckling crowds were all hired extras for Joker: Folie à Deux, and the figure at the center was Lady Gaga, offering the first full-length look at her take on the character of Harley Quinn.

Photo: Gotham / Getty Images

Starring opposite Joaquin Phoenix in the sequel to Todd Phillips’s Oscar-nominated box office smash Joker, which told the origin story of one of Batman’s greatest foes, Gaga appeared to be fully in the zone as Phoenix’s henchwoman and love interest. (As anyone who’s followed Gaga’s acting career knows, when it comes to diving into a new role, she’s nothing if not committed.) NBC News reported that the film crew had enlisted around 700 extras to play protestors and that explosions were also planned; in pictures of the filming, the crowd booed and shouted as Gaga appeared to be escorted into a courthouse, turning around to furiously raise a fist at them. 

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Uniform Dressing Ruled at Tokyo and Seoul Fashion Week

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Street stylers are roaming around Dongdaemun Plaza in a casual-cool uniform of simple basics like baseball caps, blazers, jeans, and sneakers that mix elements of streetwear and academia. Using the  Street Style Trend Tracker to look back, we found that stylish Tokyoites have been into this look for a few seasons now; further proof that these cities are making fashion trends that travel well. 

Academia meets streetwear with the addition of a baseball cap and sneakers. 

Seoul, fall 2023 ready-to-wear

Photographed by Young Chul Kim

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On the Lower East Side, a Persian New Year Dinner With a Twist

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For their own celebration, the pair brought on chef Nasrin Rejali, who moved from Iran to New York in 2016 with her three children. Rejali, who runs her own catering company, cooks her grandmother’s traditional recipes—but with the occasional New York twist. She can’t get the same fish as in Iran from the Caspian Sea, she explained, but has found that local sea bass is quite similar; for this dinner, she chose arctic char. Also on the menu were stuffed grape leaves, Persian noodles, herb frittata, and yogurt with cardoons, while the cuisine’s characteristic freshness was achieved through zingy herbs ranging from tarragon, saffron, parsley, dill, and cilantro. 



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Here’s the Latest From the 2023 World Figure Skating Championships

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Defending Japanese and world champion Kaori Sakamoto entered the free skate in first place, nearly six points ahead of Haein Lee of Korea, the current Four Continents champion. Point fractions separated Lee (73.62) from Mai Mihara of Japan (73.46) and US champion Isabeau Levito (73.03); the other American women, Bradie Tennell and Amber Glenn, were in eighth and tenth place respectively after the short program, and Loena Hendrickx, the 2022 world silver medalist, seemed shocked to find herself in fifth. In the free skate those fractions scrambled, with Hendrickx onto the podium as bronze medalist. Because Glenn moved down to 12th place and Tennell to 15th, Levito needed to finish no lower than third to guarantee three spots for US women at next year’s Worlds, but a fall on her opening jump kept her in fourth place. Mihara, too, made mistakes that pushed her down to fifth. But Haein Lee held on to second place and became the first Korean since Yuna Kim in 2013 to medal at Worlds. (Her impressive young teammate Chaeyeon Kim moved up from 12th to sixth place.) 

Levito, Mihara, and even Lee are small, delicate skaters. Kaori Sakamoto is sturdier and more athletic, with intense speed and a fearless double axel. Her jumps have great ice coverage. All that was enough to keep her in first place over her competitors (and her sobs afterward showed how much stress she had had to harness to win).

The dominant coaches and choreographers in ice dance are Marie-France Dubreuil and Patrice Lauzon, who, along with their colleague Romain Haguenauer, have trained many of the world’s top ice dancers at the Gadbois Centre in Montreal. Not all of them were in Saitama (last year’s world and Olympic champions, Gabriella Papadakis and Guillaume Cizeron; Kaitlin Hawayek and Jean-Luc Baker, whose injuries caused them to withdraw in favor of Gadbois skaters Christina Carreira and Anthony Ponomarenko). Some of them have retired from competition and now coach at Gadbois (US champion and Olympic bronze medalist Madison Hubbell; her fiancé, former Spanish champion Adrían Díaz; two-time Olympic champion Scott Moir). Eight of Dubreuil and Lauzon’s teams were competing in Saitama. (Dubreuil also choreographed Sakamoto’s free skate, to “Elastic Heart” by Sia.)

Madison Chock and Evan Bates at the ISU World Figure Skating Championships.

Photo: Getty Images

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Inside “I Am U Are,” the New Ukrainian Design Fair Showcasing the Country’s Creative Strength

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This weekend, you’ll find them spread out over an enormous 30,000-square-foot space in Skylight at Essex Crossing. There are intricate, colorful rugs woven using techniques that date back to the 16th century, chairs made in the Carpathian mountains with sheep wool cushions, and handmade beeswax candles. Modern ceramics abound—many from collectives in Opishnia, known as the pottery capital of Ukraine—as do accessories inspired by traditional Ukrainian dress: Chichka makes beaded jewelry based on the national costume of the Lemkivshchyna, whereas womenswear designer Bevza presents earrings that take cues from spikelet ornamentation worn by the people of Tripillia.

Then, there are the companies hyper-focused on the immense potential of Ukraine’s future: a state-of-the-art robotic hand from Esper Bionics, for example, as well as Solo rings with lab-grown diamonds from Kyiv. (It’s the largest plant of its kind in Europe.) “The main goal is to show Ukraine’s creative economy—that we are a great nation with great creatives,” says Pagava. “I want the makers to get opportunities from this.” Indeed, the name “I Am U Are” itself is intended to evoke the common denominators between cultures—and serve as a reminder that those of us in the United States are not so different from those in Ukraine. Everything is also for sale, with the curators hoping the show provides an economic boost to these creators.

Below, find Vogue’s highlights from the fair, which runs through March 26.

Photographed by Shana Jade Trajanoska

Photographed by Shana Jade Trajanoska

A father and his two sons—Mykola, Vasyl, and Dmytro Boruky—run Hutsul Autentica, a store that specializes in the wooden crafting techniques of Ukraine’s Hutsulshchyna Region. The fair displays several of their remarkably ornate candelabras, adorned with folksy motifs, figures, and symbols. (For those not in New York: Hutsul Authentica is also on Etsy.)

Photographed by Shana Jade Trajanoska

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Carlota Barrera Madrid Fall 2023 Collection

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This season, Spanish designer Carlota Barrera evoked Asturias, her homeland: “I’m from the north. It seemed interesting to me to go back to those seaside roots, and to develop the collection from a less romantic point of view, but with something more related to the solitude of the night,” she said.

Upheaval, the video she made with director Pablo Curto, is inspired by Luchino Visconti’s film La Terra Trema. “It’s about those night scenes where you can’t hear anything but the sound of the nets, the clothes rubbing against each other, the wind and the water. The collection is also a tribute to the women who make the nets. They build something basic for fishing, but apparently they are not given the value they deserve,” Barrera explained.

From that starting point, Barrera twisted her signature tailoring, updating it, for example, by layering rope trousers on top of other pants, or by combining workwear and fishing details, such as accessories with shells and carabiner hooks. For materials, she used natural textiles, such as cotton, tencel, and wool, with technical fabrics made of recycled polyester. “We worked with what we had leftover from other collections. For me, that’s the real sustainability,” she said.

Navy blue, moss green, and black formed the basis of the palette. Reflective finishes, beige or yellow (as in a fisherman’s mackintosh), give light to a proposal of high-waist trousers, tank tops with cut-outs, and oversize garments.

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The Elder Statesman Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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“We always compare what we do at the Elder Statesman factory to a chef’s kitchen,” Bailey Hunter, the label’s creative director, explained. “We always start with these ingredients—our yarns—and then we’re kind of in the kitchen, crafting and putting our own twist on the materials.” Not just any kitchen, of course. “It’s a Michelin star kitchen,” TES founder Greg Chait continues. “That’s why we’re all so intense and so into what we do.”

For fall, the duo decided to lean into the idea, collaborating with the Paris-based chef and artist Alix Lacloche, to create a lookbook-cookbook; meaning some pieces are inspired by recipes, and some recipes are inspired by their pieces. A khaki cashmere three-piece (that would be a sweater, shorts, and leggings) with tie-dyed polka dots had a corresponding recipe titled “peanut butter and mindfulness” made of Japanese bread topped with peanut butter and colorful “adaptogen and neutronic supplements,” while a pale blush light-as-air cashmere crochet dress had an accompanying meringue recipe.

Do not let the high concept distract from the fact that this is one of their most well-rounded collections yet. See the gorgeous plaid coat pieced together from two contrasting cashmere plaids—one in shades of blue and purple and the other in greens and reds—or the trucker-style jacket with a fuzzy collar detail and matching pleated trousers made from plaid corduroy
(woven, not printed). Another striped “suit” in shades of indigo, mint, terracotta, beige, and off-white, was made of a brushed wool with a wonderfully hair-y texture. “We’re calling it the ‘soft tailoring’ category,” Hunter explained. “It’s one of the things that we are collectively moving into; experimenting with wovens and our own proprietary fabrics.”

Not that they have abandoned the more “straightforward” knitwear that they’re known for, be that cardigans and maxi skirts in multi-color space-dyed yarns, a navy cable knit sweater and matching trouser featuring contrasting yellow and beige yarns, or a super cozy, bouclé-ish cashmere sweater made from a mix of green, khaki, and white yarns (worn as a scarf). The pièce de résistance was a robe coat with banded sleeves and hems, made from multi-color, multi-weave scraps found at their LA factory, and hand-patchworked together.

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The “Slob” Is the Spring-Ready Hairstyle Loved By Cool Girls

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The “slob” is the hottest haircut right now—and for good reason.

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