“Yes, I grew up in Berkley—I’m a hippie at heart,” Raquel Allegra says, by way of justifying the inspiration for her spring collection. Zooming in from her studio in California, she says, “I don’t know if anyone in the room there has had an experience that has shifted their mind and shifted the way they look at the world through having a relationship with ancient plants.” The world of psychedelics and mycelium is certainly having a moment—it’s been referenced at Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen in recent seasons—but Allegra’s take was uniquely her own. Specifically, she was thinking about beauty: “What’s the lens through which we perceive what we’re looking at?” For this collection, the lens is “love, color, and comfort.”
The color and comfort parts have always been key principles in Allegra’s collections, and most of it felt familiar: dip-dye dresses in shades of pink and yellow like a sunset or blues like the inside of a wave; patchwork sweaters with “overlapping globes of color”; and raw edges. A caftan in Allegra’s signature tie-dye, in shades of yellow and mustard, was a youthful take on the trend, with its kangaroo pocket and contrasting fabric. She also brought back the technique of creating prints on embossed fabrics, as in the shirtdress with swirls of greens and blues and reds like watercolors dissipating in a cup of water; they were overlaid over a jacquard pattern that resembled earth formations and worn like a robe over a matching T-shirt and leggings.
The watercolor motif was also present on a splatter-print suit whose print was actually Raquel Allegra’s name blown up into oversized proportions. “I’ve always struggled with the idea of wearing a logo,” she says. “To me, it needed to mean something. A name can mean something, obviously, but also it felt important to say something more than just the name or initials. I scrawled my name in really big writing, and then I dipped my hands in the ink, and I had this really fun afternoon of exploration with ink on the fabric. That was a way that I felt comfortable putting a logo on our garment.” She also created a monogram out of her initials, whose shape resembles a snake eating its own tail (“it represents the continued flow of the life cycle”), that showed up on the sleeve of a striped shirt dip-dyed in black and worn with matching trousers and a tie (also embroidered with her monogram). They seemed a little out of place in a collection full of breezy, color-drenched dresses and skirts, but it made sense to the designer.
“What’s really important to me about the way we put the collection together is that it not just be one thing—you know, we’re dynamic,” she says. “To me [the model in that look is] a rock star. When I go to shows and I see someone on the stage that is expressing themselves, like pure creativity, to me that is also godly.” She adds, “There’s godliness to being in your specific purpose.” And Raquel Allegra would be the first one to tell you she’s found hers.
Gregory Crewdson • A New Solo Show in Italy
Gregory Crewdson. Eveningside will open tomorrow at Gallerie D’Italia-Turin: from October 12, 2022, to January 22, 2023, the museum will dedicate most of its 10,000 square meters of gallery space to the works of the internationally renowned American photographer Gregory Crewdson.
The centerpiece of the exhibition, curated by Jean-Charles Vergne, is the world premiere of the series titled Evening Side (2021–2022), whose photographs, partly commissioned by Intesa Sanpaolo, were conceived by the artist as the final act of a trilogy spanning ten years of work and including the series Cathedral of the Pines (2012–2014) and An Eclipse of Moths (2018–2019).
Each series of the trilogy represents essential stages in Crewdson’s artistic journey and creative evolution over the past decade, with themes ranging from the intimate and personal, to existential and expansive visions of the world, to reflections on deep respect and admiration for the history of photography, painting, film, and other mediums, all reinvented to tell his own stories.
Also on view is the series Fireflies (1996), whose images offer in their simplicity a connective tissue and a counterpoint to the other projects.
Favorite Street Style Photos from the Spring 2023 Season
You still have time to catch up with our street style galleries as fashion month moved from New York to London, Milan, and Paris.
At the shows, nearly a thousand of the best-dressed editors, designers, and celebrities were recorded by our observant fashion photographer, Phil Oh. Here are a few of my favorites, including twinning photos in New York, tulle-filled antics outside Simone Rocha, and cowboys wearing Gucci in Milan. These are my favorite street-style photos, which you might have missed.
Download the Vogue Runway app to stay up to date on the newest shows, street styles, and more by scrolling through the gallery below.
Favorite Street Style – Credit; Phil Oh
Hope For Flowers Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Hope For Flowers Spring 2023 represents a collection that is ethically conceived and constructed using eco-friendly materials. The line features Tracy Reese’s distinctive designs, love of color, and pattern while utilizing a slow fashion approach to create simple-to-wear, kind-to-the-earth apparel that is in step with the seasons.
Tracy Reese at Hope for Flowers is feeling more chaste than the spring 2023 runways, which are dominated by short hemlines, transparent materials, and crop tops. After considerable thought, Reese is bidding goodbye to all the styles with peekaboo midriffs from her last collection.
In 1998, Tracy Reese established her own fashion company in New York City. Over the course of the last twenty years or so, the company has grown to include the sub-brands Plenty, Frock!, and Black Label and has enjoyed successful partnerships with stores like Barney’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Anthropologie.
Michelle Obama, the first lady, spoke at the DNC in 2012 while wearing a specially made Tracy Reese outfit. Oprah Winfrey, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Tracee Ellis Ross are a few more well-known brand supporters.
Reese claims, “When I truly looked at what was selling, it was more modest.” “I want to focus on designing garments that people adore and will wear time and time again.” I don’t want to follow trends too much. Making sure I’m producing something that you’ll want to wear in four or five years is a part of working more responsibly. I want to always remember it.
Hope For Flowers Spring 2023 – Wear
The silhouettes, which mostly come in the trapeze, wrap, and slip varieties, are closet workhorses, but they have unique touches like cutout needlework or patchwork designs. The wide-leg trousers with cargo pockets are the closest thing to being bang-on-trend, but they are simple enough that the consumer will want to keep them when the trend shifts back to tapered designs.
According to Reese, her core clientele seeks her out for luncheon and cocktail party-ready blouses and dresses. Hope for flowers Spring 2023 includes several of these timeless styles in a variety of patterns and materials.
Sustainability, in Tracy’s opinion, comprises developing and creating clothing in a more responsible manner, which calls for paying more attention to sourcing and fabric selections as well as the ethical standards for those employed in the fashion industry. It also entails expanding a network of collaborations with other corporations that value ethical behavior.
According to Tracy, the main objective of Hope for Flowers spring 2023 has been to use fabrics that are as kind to the environment and the people who make them as possible. Because in the past, she designed whatever fabrics she wanted, going to fabric fairs and experimenting with new textile breakthroughs.
She has had to refine my approach to textile procurement without giving much thought to the origin of the fibers or the effects of textile manufacturing on the environment. Hope For Flowers Spring 2023 is about being sustainable and pushing for sustainability.
Cynthia Erivo – From Running to Fashion Week
The story and evolution of Cynthia Erivo; the jack of all trades.
Erivo claims that the dramatic atmosphere of the presentation made it all worthwhile. According to Erivo, the music was extremely beautiful and the production design for the event was incredibly beautiful—a post-apocalyptic, alien atmosphere.
Erivo, who usually wears Vuitton on the red carpet, also admired Nicolas Ghesquiere’s contemporary designs and planned outfits for upcoming events. The black leather halter dress, which resembled the buckle on the boots featured in the performance two seasons ago, was her favorite outfit, she claims.
It had a huge cream-colored belt at the hem of the dress and a large cream-colored belt at the neck. My favorite was this. As a red-carpet celebrity and fashion enthusiast, Cynthia Erivo needed to make her own distinctive front-row appearance.
She wore a gold Vuitton crossover blouse styled by Jason Bolden with high-waisted leather harem pants. It turns out [Bolden and Vuitton] kept that style for me.
I suppose you know me well enough to know that I prefer risky and bold things. It felt good and very Egyptian to me. She finished the ensemble with a top-handle Vuitton bag featuring her monogram and stiletto heels. She explains that Louis knows how much I love high-rise heels.
Who is Cynthia Erivo?Cynthia Erivo
Cynthia Onyedinmanasu Chinasaokwu Erivo was born to Nigerian parents in London, England. She is a British actress, singer, and composer, best known for her work in the Hollywood films Widows (2018), Bad Times at the El Royale (2018), and her starring role as Harriet Tubman in the biopic Harriet (2019).
She received the Hollywood Breakthrough Award for Actress of the Year at the 2019 Hollywood Film Awards for her performance in the film. The praise didn’t end there either. She has been nominated for awards at the Golden Globes, the Academy Awards, and the BAFTAs, where she was nominated for a Rising Star Award.
Cynthia Erivo enrolled at the University of East Anglia to study music psychology after graduating from La Retraite, a Roman Catholic girls’ school. In 2015, Cynthia made her Broadway debut in the Menier Chocolate Factory’s revival of The Color Purple.
She returned to film as Celie Harris, starring alongside Danielle Brooks as Sofia and Oscar-winning actress Jennifer Hudson as Shug Avery. Cynthia eventually won the 2016 Tony Award for Best Actress in a Musical. Cynthia Erivo made her Hollywood debut in 2018 after spending several years on Broadway, starring in two notable plays.
She was a cast member in the thriller Bad Times at the El Royale, directed by Drew Goddard. She starred in the film alongside A-list actors such as Jeff Bridges, Jon Hamm, and Chris Hemsworth as struggling singer Darlene Sweet.
Cynthia Erivo Awards and Albums
In a 2011 theatrical production of The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, Erivo made his acting debut. She rose to fame after starring in the 2015–2017 Broadway revival of The Color Purple. For this role, she received both the Grammy Award for Best Musical Theater Album and the 2016 Tony Award for Best Actress in a Musical.
In 2018, Erivo made his film debut, appearing in the thriller Bad Times at the El Royale and the heist film Widows. In 2019, Erivo received a Best Actress Oscar nomination for her portrayal of American abolitionist Harriet Tubman in the 2019 biopic Harriet.
She also composed and performed the song “Stand Up” for the soundtrack, which earned her a mention for Best Original Song. She played The Blue Fairy in the 2022 Pinocchio remake.
In 2020, Cynthia Erivo played investigator Holly Gibney in the HBO miniseries The Outsider, a television version of Stephen King’s book of the same name. She founded Edith’s Daughter Productions that same year and agreed to a partnership with media giant MRC to capitalize on the production business of Explore TV programs.
Patrick Ness’ The Knife of Never Letting Go was the inspiration for the science fiction film Chaos Walking, which was released in theaters on March 5, 2021. In the third season of the anthology series Genius, which debuted in March 2021, Erivo played singer Aretha Franklin.
She released two tracks, “The Good” and “Glowing Up,” to coincide with the release of her debut studio album, Ch. 1 Vs. Enviro. She performed at the BBC Proms on July 17, 2022, and paid tribute to the iconic singers who have influenced her, including Gladys Knight, Nina Simone, Shirley Bassey, Billie Holiday, and Shirley Bassey.
According to John Bungey’s article in The Times, Erivo’s tribute to Legendary Voices was far more than just a night of respectful fangirl covers. After agreeing to the terms of the agreement, there was much to appreciate, not the least of which was Erivo’s incredible singing.
She has a range of three octaves and is classified as a mezzo-soprano in classical music. While she occasionally improvised heartfelt flourishes, everything she did served the melody. The first Acappella introduction to The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face was so flawless that the underhanded performance of the orchestra was almost regrettable.
Mario Erivo, Dating
In fact, Cynthia and Mario first got together when she was dating someone else. She was romantically involved with Dean John-Wilson, an actor. They started dating in 2013. When he starred as Prince Ali in the West End version of Aladdin in 2016, she was seen walking the red carpet with him.
She had dated Dean for about three years before meeting Mario. Mario wasn’t an actor, but his work was close enough that their paths crossed regularly. She explained to Vanity Fair in 2019 that he was stalking me.
He would ask her out even though she was already in a relationship. When it comes to her romantic relationships, Cynthia Erivo is quite discreet. But in 2019, she wrote a few posts specifically for him. One of them was a monochromatic post on Valentine’s Day, in which she expressed her love for him.
She also sent him a warm greeting on his birthday. She captioned the picture with the words I adore you (via Bustle.) May this year be filled with wonderful things and may this day be pleasant for love. I’m very excited to see how much you have in store.
Exploring Loewe Spring 2023 – What to Look Forward to
Loewe Spring 2023 brings to the picture a company that has been in the European market for more than one century. LOEWE is a reflection of craftsmanship and luxury.
As the 2023 fashion week kicks into action, France is ready to be bustling with eager shoppers ready to experience innovative designs. The events feature celebrities and people from all levels of society. Paparazzi are always on the lookout for the most stylish displays on the runway and in the VIP areas.
Designers will be having one of their busiest seasons this season. The show will host underdogs who are making an impact as well as well-known ones, as in the New York Fashion Week display last year. Every fashion designer wants to be featured in a fashion show that screams elegance! Fashion Week 2023 is an opportunity for any fashion brand that cuts through to be experienced and reviewed by the world.
Fashion companies and designers are up to a challenging task after hours, months, and years of research on customer behavior and design knowledge and innovation. Apart from personalities and trends, the designers can get data from social media accounts such as Twitter and Facebook.
The Loewe Spring 2023 Runway Show
The firm continues to spike as the management tries to preserve its history. Through cartoons, Anderson continues to provide perspectives on Loewe spring/summer 2023 through video games created in the 1990s.
Loewe summer/spring 2023 is expected to be different and very unconventional; rules are expected to be broken and innovation is expected to shine. The story is based on Loewe’s performance last year and Anderson’s nature of incorporating fantastical elements.
If Anderson’s prior runway displays are any indication, we can only begin to speculate about what may be shown from behind the curtains. Zendaya, who just over a week ago uploaded a potential runway outfit on her Instagram account, is among the expected famous guests. What other A-listers should you watch out for? We may take inspiration from Loewe’s most recent brand ambassadors, Chinese actress Tang Wei and South Korean band NMIXX.
Those watching the Loewe runway show should expect a stylish and gustatory show from Anderson.
Vogue World – Snap on AR Filters
“Vogue World: New York is a celebration of all the ways in which fashion is changing,” says Vogue creative editorial director Mark Guiducci. “It comes at a moment when designers have become multidisciplinary creators, innovating how we engage with fashion — even virtually.”
The goal is to take “an age-old brand story and tell it through brand new technology,” says Resh Sidhu, global director of Arcadia, Snap’s creative studio for branded AR. Vogue and Snap will promote the Vogue World event via two lenses inspired by and branded Vogue that can be used worldwide: “A New Stage”, inspired by the Vogue around the World runway, allows people to bring versions of the staging to their own environment, while “Lit Up” enables selfies that “reflect the runway” through a virtual glow based on the sunset and moonrise.
Vogue World and Technology integration
AR try-on has become increasingly popular in fashion and beauty. Brands began by testing makeup and face filters , before graduating to items like shoes and watches. Big names including Gucci, Burberry, Farfetch and Prada have tested shoppable AR try-on, and Snap has worked to position itself as a go-to partner for the industry’s AR endeavors. In June, British Vogue brought a Snapchat experience to Cannes Lions that let visitors try on digital items from brands such as Versace and Dior.
Brands have also tested Snap’s ability to add a “digital layer” to the world around us, as Snap global product lead in AR Carolina Arguelles Navas has said to Vogue Business, through enhancements such as in-store augmentations (such as Nike’s AR archives experience with “artefacts” unlocked via QR codes) or delivering a stack of Louis Vuitton luggage cases.
As physical fashion weeks reconvene in global cities, pop-ups and shows such as AR platform Zero10’s digital retail store in New York and AR fashion artist Doddz’s digital in-person show, are expected to take advantage of improvements in AR technology. The Vogue World experience, for example, uses Snap’s ground and sky segmentation technology, and Snap recently made its try-on tech available to external apps and developers in a bid to deepen relationships with brands and retailers. The experience has has been likened to watching en vogue on a different world. Snap has been a clear leader in using AR for social commerce, and now sees more than 6 billion AR Lens plays daily. As of Snap’s Q1 2022, more than 250 million people used Snap’s AR shopping lenses every day on average.
Kate Spade New York Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Kate Spade New York was launched in January 1993, as a joint venture between then soon-to-be-married couple Kate and Andy Spade. She was a Mademoiselle accessories editor-turned designer, he was a copywriter; their take on fashion might be called “editorial.” The brand has always had a voice and wink-wink sense of humor, coupled with purpose. The rectangular, nylon Sam bag that brought the company such renown responded to a gap in the market for something affordable and functional, but chic. It wasn’t long before Kate Spade New York became a lifestyle brand known for sophistication, wit, and color.
Tapestry, Inc. acquired the brand in 2017, and days ago revealed the names of its latest creative directors, industry veterans Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu. The duo staged their debut presentation at Three World Trade Center and the magnificent view underlined the brand’s association with the city. The set and the collection referenced nature. Surrounded by a verdant “lawn,” models braved a shower that was carefully designed to fall next to, rather than on them.
Color and charm were the takeaways here. Lyu’s childrens’ bath toy was one of the inspirations for a cloud bag with fringes of rain that couldn’t be more Instagram friendly, and was shown with a cardigan jacket and jeans. A lot of attention was paid to details and finishings, and outfits were cleverly conceived. A floral dress, for example, was paired with rain boots in a matching floral.
As Kate Spade New York is marking its 30th anniversary, and Mora and Lyu are building on the brand’s heritage, it makes sense that there was a retro feeling to the garments. 1950s and ’60s silhouettes predominated, adapted for today. This vision of femininity, however pretty, is also saccharine, somewhat stereotypical and assumes—despite the rainwear—a celebratory and blue-sky attitude, leaving little room for expressing a range of emotions.
But for those wishing to escape into an Instagram perfect world, this collection delivered in spades, as did the designers’ stated framework. “Our favorite adventures come when we least expect them. Like getting caught in the rain. Looked at one way, it’s a mishap. Another, a moment of sky-opening escape,” read the show notes in part. Flexibility and the ability to see things from different perspectives are qualities sorely lacking in the world right now. They are what Kate and Andy Spade brought to the brand decades ago, and Mora and Lyu aim to bring forward today, rain or shine.
Proenza Schouler Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
There’s a 20th anniversary in the Proenza Schouler designers’ imminent future. New York fashion’s perennial It boys Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have been around the block a few times; these days they’re the establishment and a new generation of young talents are vying for the It boy title. How fast that happens!
Arca, the trans musician from Venezuela, opened their show in a loose black tank whose hem was pulled over one shoulder, revealing white silk fringe over her bare midriff and a bubble skirt. From there McCollough and Hernandez explored Latin flourishes, like flamenco ruffles peeking from the hems of generously cut bell bottoms, polka dots of varying sizes decorating twist-front dresses, and piped bell sleeves that extend past the knees. In the past, they’ve tended to cite travel adventures or their tight circle of girlfriends as influences. But after the show, Hernandez wanted to talk about his roots. “I leaned into my Latin identity, I’m Cuban,” he said. That tight circle of friends is going to like these pieces a lot.
The models wore their hair slicked back wet and their skin was dewy. They looked as if they just stepped off a dance floor or climbed out of the sea. With videos of waterfalls projected onto the marble walls of the venue and an ASMR triggering soundtrack to match, the collection felt closer to nature than last season’s. Crochet separates, nipple-freeing sheer lace shirts and dresses, and compact knit pieces that seemed to take their cues from swimwear looked like the work of designers who’d like to hold on to a summer feeling for as long as they can—a relatable instinct on this busy September Friday.
“We’re just talking about the idea of energy, of joy, of sensuality, these things that sometimes we feel are lost in our lives, to be honest, and we’re trying to find a way to get them back,” McCollough said. Twenty years is no small milestone. How do you sustain energy and joy when you’ve been at something that long? McCollough and Hernandez tapped into it this season by working with a community of weavers in Bolivia. “We did it all via email and conversations over the phone,” Hernandez related. “We were able to make four pieces with them and employ them for six months. They were so happy.” But you know who sounded really happy? He did.
Fendi Resort 2023 Collection | Vogue
It’s been years since New York has seen a fashion production as big as tonight’s Fendi show. Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi came to town to mark a milestone, the 25th anniversary of the Italian label’s Baguette bag—a bag, said Venturini Fendi, “that does what fashion should do: bring pleasure to people”—and they threw quite a party. The Hammerstein Ballroom was transformed with soft beige carpet and curtain, the rough edges of the rock venue all but buffed away. In the front row, Kim Kardashian, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Naomi Watts held down one end of the bench, and Kate Moss, Shalom Harlow, and Amber Valletta the other. What Grace Jones was doing in the second row is anyone’s guess. Then, of course, there’s what happened on the runway itself.
First, though, a word on the New York connection. Sex & the City made the Baguette famous. “It was almost like a character,” Jones said at a preview. “So I thought let’s do the show here, and let’s add in a few curveballs as we always do.” That Jones is a prodigious collaborator has been well documented, but the match-ups he orchestrated this season were particularly inspired. Tiffany & Co., an LVMH brand like Fendi, was brought in to provide the baguettes—as in diamond baguettes. The double-F logo on the Tiffany blue croc Baguette carried by Bella Hadid was pavéd in the precious stones.
Marc Jacobs and Jones go back to their days together at Louis Vuitton, where Jacobs was something of a serial collaborator himself—see Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, and Yayoi Kusama—and anyway who is New Yorkier than him? Jacobs’s section riffed on his recent collections with block letter intarsias spelling out FendiRoma rather than his own logo on everything from tracksuits and trucker jackets and matching jeans to an oversize terry robe.
“I called Marc up and asked him if he wanted to design a collection for Fendi. I haven’t been involved at all,” Jones explained. “We worked side by side during fittings. We were doing ours, he was doing his. I’m looking very much at 1997 and I think Mark’s is fresh and now.” Google results for Fendi’s collections from 1997 don’t yield many overlaps between that year and today. Jones was after more of a feeling. “I was thinking about when I was first coming to New York and we would go out clubbing,” he said. Hence the irreverent, high/low mix of sequins and utility jackets, or a shearling sherpa and a mini. He meant what he said about utility. Even beanies and gaiters came with built-in Baguettes, as did many of the garments, those shearling sherpas most temptingly.
For the kicker, Linda Evangelista, who is the current face of Fendi, glided out, resplendent in a Tiffany blue opera cape, with a sterling silver Baguette bag in the crook of her arm. Jacobs, who joined Jones and Venturini Fendi for a bow, encouraged everyone to stand up—not that the crowd needed any convincing.
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